The main difference between the Mini-Notch option vs. the SIMPLE.C10 Drop option is that the notch is smaller which allows the bed floor to not be altered from the factory depth. This however only allows the rear of the truck to drop as far as the mini-notch will allow, but is a suitable option if you want to still be able to use the truck bed or like the look of the original bed. The front of the truck can be bagged the same as the SIMPLE.C10 Drop, including cupping the lower A-arms and cutting out the inner fenders to get it to go down to sitting on the A-arms. Or different configurations can be done to keep from having to cut out the inner fenders. Below we will list out some of the modifications you can expect with this lowering option.

***All of these points are directly related to a 63-66 C10. Other trucks and models may vary significantly. But the general rules apply.

• To keep the bed floor at the factory depth and spend less money on labor costs associated with the SIMPLE.C10 Drop, a Mini-Notch and drop blocks are utilized to allow the rearend to drop a bit farther than if the frame was left stock.
• The compressor, airtank and air management system will need to be mounted on the framerail just in front of the rear tires, or depending on the location of the fuel tank, behind the seat can be utilized for air tank mounting.
• With this option the driveshaft does not need to be shortened or the center crossmember modified.
• To get the front down as low as it can go with factory components the lower A-arms can be cupped to allow an additional 2 inches of drop. In addtion to that a 2.5 inch drop spindle is used to get it down and keep the steering geometry in-line. (If your truck is already equipped with front disc brakes this will lower the overal cost of the build some.)
• Due to the front being dropped this low in the front, the trucks inner fenders need to be modified. The easiest solution is to cut out the inner fender just enough to have the tire clear. Two things happen here - one, the tire is exposed under the hood so dirt and debris can get into the engine bay, although, this is usually not a major problem unless you plan to drive it when it's wet out. Two, this requires cutting off the factory springs used on the hood hinges which makes the hood heavy to open and must be proped with a rod (provided with the build). For an addtional parts and labor fee, custom inner fenders can be installed and there are kits with shocks that can be installed to help assist with lifting the hood. The other option is to not cup the lower A-arms and not have to cut the inner fenders, if you're ok with that max amount of drop when the system is aired out.
• In order to lay this low the exhaust system also has to be modified to make sure it is not below the frame rail. (If you are not dropping the front all the way there are other options with the exhaust, even though we would still highly recommend the exhaust be tucked higher than the frame for possible clearance issues.)
• With the Airlift 3P Management System we install, there will be a small controller in the seat of the truck. This can be located anywhere based on your preference.